Behind again
There was a time, not so long ago, when I had my collections planned out for the entire year ahead. Even if I hadn’t ordered the fabrics, at least knew what I was going to order; saving me hours of time deciding which colour, which design and which print to order. Now I’ve found myself running behind schedule for the winter collection (I’m still ordering my fabrics and will probably have to launch the collection a few weeks later than planned), and since I’ve been spending time focusing on the higher level stuff I’ve let go of a lot of small but important details.
The solution isn’t really to cut out on the higher level stuff- it’s important that I concentrate on the branding and marketing aspect of my business – but I guess I need to manage my time a lot better until I can afford an efficient assistant. I wouldn’t have put so much thought into coming out with a new pricing scheme for my collection (which is I think is paying off by the way) or listened harder to customer feedback about the lack of bright colours if I wasn’t spending the amount of time that I have analyzing past sales and talking to customers at the store. However all the new information that I have now has made me a slower decision maker (translation: indecisive). I think ten times before ordering fabrics now (“will this really be popular and still stand out as different?”) and I spend more time explaining design ideas to my suppliers.
This new process is a little more tedious, I have to admit. When I wasn’t thinking about customer appeal I selected fabrics that were more representative of my taste and my design aesthetic. Now I’m conscious of sales and catering to a wider variety of tastes that my customers have. So rather than nurturing that innate instinct that drew me to a particular fabric I am trying to hone my data analysis skills to choose fabrics that will increase my store popularity. Serves me right for majoring in economics.
All this high level work has resulted in the suffering of other small details (or low level management) that went a long way. I’ve stopped doing my random checks on garments at the production unit and I’m starting to find small errors with finished garments at the store. I’ve stopped my training sessions with my sales staff and I find they are settling into complacency. When do founders of businesses get to leave behind the small stuff to focus only on high level decision making?
Right now I’m ordering ikat fabrics for an ankle length cotton dress for the spring collection. I had originally wanted Uzbekistan ikat inspired designs, but those might be hard to design and replicate in Andhra. So here are some designs from my supplier in Andhra and I’m trying to figure out which ones would work better and what colours I should change. Think of these fabrics made into a thin cotton dress, fitted at the empire line and with a halter neck or a low neck with thin shoulder straps. Thoughts or suggestions?
I really like this one but might have to change a few colours to make it look brighter. Perhaps indigo instead of black or fill the white spaces with indigo.
This has promise but needs a complete colour makeover. I was thinking of going ultra modern with yellow, pink and peacock blue (it will look muted when mixed with the off-white weft yarn).
The solution isn’t really to cut out on the higher level stuff- it’s important that I concentrate on the branding and marketing aspect of my business – but I guess I need to manage my time a lot better until I can afford an efficient assistant. I wouldn’t have put so much thought into coming out with a new pricing scheme for my collection (which is I think is paying off by the way) or listened harder to customer feedback about the lack of bright colours if I wasn’t spending the amount of time that I have analyzing past sales and talking to customers at the store. However all the new information that I have now has made me a slower decision maker (translation: indecisive). I think ten times before ordering fabrics now (“will this really be popular and still stand out as different?”) and I spend more time explaining design ideas to my suppliers.
This new process is a little more tedious, I have to admit. When I wasn’t thinking about customer appeal I selected fabrics that were more representative of my taste and my design aesthetic. Now I’m conscious of sales and catering to a wider variety of tastes that my customers have. So rather than nurturing that innate instinct that drew me to a particular fabric I am trying to hone my data analysis skills to choose fabrics that will increase my store popularity. Serves me right for majoring in economics.
All this high level work has resulted in the suffering of other small details (or low level management) that went a long way. I’ve stopped doing my random checks on garments at the production unit and I’m starting to find small errors with finished garments at the store. I’ve stopped my training sessions with my sales staff and I find they are settling into complacency. When do founders of businesses get to leave behind the small stuff to focus only on high level decision making?
Right now I’m ordering ikat fabrics for an ankle length cotton dress for the spring collection. I had originally wanted Uzbekistan ikat inspired designs, but those might be hard to design and replicate in Andhra. So here are some designs from my supplier in Andhra and I’m trying to figure out which ones would work better and what colours I should change. Think of these fabrics made into a thin cotton dress, fitted at the empire line and with a halter neck or a low neck with thin shoulder straps. Thoughts or suggestions?
Labels: collections, design process, fashion, ikat, research and development, textile design, textiles


12 Comments:
Very well written as always. It sounds like you are reaching a stage where there are more (high priority-ish) things on that todo list than resources to handle them.
If hiring a full time assistant is tough right now, get an intern(or two). Lots of smart, enthusiastic kids in college(and even school) these days looking for real world experience. They get some valuable experience and you get to offload some of that work.
Hi Anaka,
The first design with a halter neck and indigo base sounds like a good idea. Also, have you considered taking in an intern to help you with some of the day-to-day stuff, may be?
Looking forward to the new collection!
Bests,
Aditi
I have considered hiring an intern, but I'm very apprehensive because I don't really have an office space right now (my home office is small and I don't want to get away from my laptop so that someone else can use it) and I'm worried that I might have to spend more time mentoring the intern than actually getting work done. But I could be wrong, and I'll keep an open mind.
i love the ikat! i think the color as it is is gorgeous for spring!
Have you thought of interns from Nift kinda places?
Hi
I love the color combo you have suggested for the second ikat pattern! Sounds very kitsch. I can think of very pretty mix and match garments for these fabrics too.
Good luck!
ikats are great with fits that are away from the body - like a flowing skirt. since ikats can be very colorful it may be a overdose for a full summer dress (if i have read correctly what you have written). But again in a culture that celebrates and embraces color it may be quite right and it also depends on the hues and the weaves - too broad stripes or too vertical, too narrow or broad -(i am not sure if i am using the correct words here..)
with a dress made with ikat fabrics what catches the attention first is the weave and colors ( the power of ikat) and the style only second .. my 2 cents
Haripriya- Have thought of interns from NIFT, but just not sure how much work I really can delegate and be confident that they'll do it right. No harm in trying though- will get on that soon (add it to my list of things to do :))
Tretha: thank you. I am a little worried about the kitch part, but I'm willing to take a risk.
Anrosh: I'm worried about a full length dress more because it is full length (how many people will wear those) rather than knee length. I see what you mean by an overdose of colour and ikat, but I think if I leave some of the base (off white) fabric intant, that would help. I didn't understand what you mean by the broad stripes being too vertical or too narrow, but you probably are correct in thinking that the weave and colours take a lot of attention away from the style of the dress. Your 2 cents is worth more than you think :)
Hi Anaka,
Thought provoking article,
But, that's the advantage of working with traditional textiles and their prints which are timeless, yes, maybe you need to give a modern silhouette :)
For one collection, we had teamed Ikkat with kalamkari border and the range was quite a hit :)
All the best for your spring range, I have to still start preparing for it :(
Sophia: Ikat and kalamkari sounds like a great combination! Good luck with your spring collection, I'm still working on mine and haven't placed any orders yet.
I know it is too late to comment on ur 'behind again' post. but could hols back my wild imagination with the fabric...I think a gypsy kind of effect will be more effective with this kind of a fabric pattern
A gypsy kind of effect? Not sure what you mean, but since my brand is all about trying to re-articulate textiles for a cosmopolitan market, I was planning to make long dresses out of these fabrics (fitted at the bust and empire line, a little more flowing at the waist and hip).
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