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Sunday, September 27, 2009

Monsoon Collection 2009

Every time I launch a new collection I say I’m excited about it, but this time it’s not just the excitement of putting something new out there and waiting to see the response. It’s exciting because I’ve tried harder to incorporate feedback about pricing, while also trying to make clothes that are less safe. I’ve stayed away from the shaped “shift dress” pattern this time with my evening dresses: one is a silk halter dress in ikat ("Black Orchid") and the other is a printed tussar dress with ruched sleeves ("Epiphyte"). My summer collection had a lot of sleeveless tops so this collection is a bit stronger in the sleeves department, but most important of all, with this collection begins a new pricing scheme that I’m starting.

Normally the costing for my garments is the sum of materials and tailoring cost (which is standard across all styles) multiplied by a profit margin. With this collection I’ve tried to get a more accurate measure of the tailoring cost per style (some styles are simple and one tailor can make 4 garments in a day, while others are more complicated and can take a tailor nearly 6 hours to make one piece). This means that the simpler garments have become less expensive than what they would have been compared to the old pricing scheme, but it also means that the complex garments have become more expensive. Hopefully it will be for the good however, because now I offer a wider range of prices at my store (Rs 660 to Rs 3000).

The goal for this collection was to take the “Brass Tacks look” up by a notch or two and try styles that are more adventurous and more glamourous as well. Except for the “Shirt Dress” which has a very different look (I like it, but it definitely stands apart from the rest of the collection), I’m happy with how cohesive this collection has turned out. In fact it’s more cohesive than some of my past collections even though the theme isn’t as strong.

Below are some of the creative shots from this collection. I wanted the flowers to add to the glamour aspect without looking like an incongruous prop, so I made them accessories that complimented the outfit. I tried so hard to source Hanging Heliconias for the khadi dress ("Lady Bird") but couldn’t find any the day before the shoot so we had to cut regular Heliconias and string them together with wires. My photographer did wonders with the lighting to create a fabulous backdrop, the model was enthusiastic and helpful throughout the day, and the owners of my favourite childhood store lent their jewellery for the shoot (just in case you were wondering, back in the day I used to buy their handmade paper and I didn’t start buying their jewellery until a few years ago).

"Lady Bird", cotton khadi dress with pleat details at the neck. The shrug (“Colombo Shrug”) that is photographed in this dress got ready only by 4pm so I didn’t get to shoot it with the dress in the catalogue shots.


"Black Orchid", a halter neck dress made from handwoven mulberry silk with diamond shaped ikat designs. White Orchids were draped on her arms (by the model's friend who showed up in the evening to lend a hand) and I love the final outcome- looks like orchids are growing on her arm!


"Epiphyte", a printed tussar-silk dress with a fitted empire line and ruched sleeves. These Aranthera Anne Black orchids we used to braid into the model's hair and twist around her neck were so easy to work with. The flowers never fell off despite all the twisting and the colour looked great with the dress.

Jewellery: Courtesy of Aesthetics, Radha Krishna Salai (ph: 044- 2811-1973).

The rest of the pictures will be up on the website soon.

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11 Comments:

Blogger Anrosh said...

you will tell us these are flying out the door. cheers -

this time we were not able to see where the hemline stands - was that kept deliberately out of the picture ?

September 28, 2009 4:39 PM  
Blogger Anaka said...

Thanks Anrosh! The creative shots are more to convey a mood rather than show case the entire outfit, so for the sake of capturing more detail of the outfit and the flowers, these shots were close ups without the hemline. But the regular catalogue pics which will be up soon show the entire outfit.

September 28, 2009 9:05 PM  
Anonymous Anu said...

Wow, love the use of flowers. Esp. that bird of paradise around the waist.

September 29, 2009 8:32 AM  
Blogger Sophia Ali said...

Hi Anaka, From a buyer's perspective, I can tell you that this range will surely rock.

Keep up the good work...your hard work..

September 29, 2009 10:48 PM  
Blogger Anaka said...

Thanks Anu! We used a stem of Hanging Heliconias for the test shoot and it worked so beautifully because the stem was flexible and it was just right for the model's tiny waist. I tried hard to get that again for the real shoot but we had to make do wiring together regular Heliconias.

And Sophia thank you! That means a lot to me :)

September 30, 2009 6:59 AM  
Anonymous Ishrath said...

Very creative shoot. Wish the jewelery could show up too.

October 3, 2009 1:43 AM  
Blogger Anaka said...

Thanks Ishrath. The shoot is really meant for Brass Tacks and the jewellery is meant to compliment the clothes rather than draw attention from it. If I had zoomed in to the jewellery then you might have seen less of the clothes!

October 3, 2009 8:47 AM  
Blogger lulu said...

Anaka,
Visting your blog after a while and am totally in love with your new collection. I want to buy them all!
I'm making a trip to Madras just to shop at Brass Tacks. Really cool stuff.
Where do you get all your inspiration from????!!!
x

October 6, 2009 5:18 PM  
Blogger Anaka said...

You're really making a trip here just to shop at Brass Tacks?? I'm honoured!
Most of my inspiration comes from the fabric itself, although of late I've been paying more attention to customer feedback and thinking more about what I think will sell. The necessity to break even is possibly pushing me in the right direction :)

October 6, 2009 9:30 PM  
Anonymous Sunita Thyagarajan said...

Hi Anaka,

I like this collection - and just a couple of thoughts I wanted to share with you - I really love your style and ideas and designs, but for the younger clientele, brighter and more vibrant colors would have more appeal, I feel. For example, the yellow and the navy blues are gorgeous, but I would love to see brighter (yet muted?!) shades of reds, oranges, greens and blues (even purple). I bought an orange/khakhi outfit set last year in Ikat and still love it. Hope to stop by next time I am in India. Keep up the great work!

October 9, 2009 6:59 PM  
Blogger Anaka said...

Sunitha: thanks for your comments. I am going to incorporate more colours as I've mentioned in this post and an older one ("conforming to stand out"). I completely see what you are saying and you will see more colour in upcoming collections!

October 9, 2009 8:19 PM  

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