Conforming to Stand Out
In the last couple of months I’ve been going through a lot of self-doubt about my brand; wondering if what I want to do is a viable plan, and if there are enough people out there who share my taste. A lot of the feedback I’ve been hearing of late is that my clothes have cuts and styles that are "very young" but in fabrics that are meant for “old people”.
Ouch, right?
But let's set aside how crushed I feel when I see young women try on my clothes and say “it makes me look like I’m forty”. After all I suppose I can look on the bright side and take some strange comfort in the fact that they can see what I am trying to do at Brass Tacks. The whole point at Brass Tacks is to take handwoven fabrics and give them a makeover in the form of tailored, stylish clothing. However if my target customer still feels that the fabrics are making the overall garment look old, then I’ve not succeeded in my design goal.
One lady told me that the designs look “confused” because they are neither for older women (too tailored and fitted with adventurous cuts) nor are they for younger women (“old” colours and fabrics). Well if I have to be either “here” or “there” to make this for-profit model work, then here are my choices:
Plan A: Continue doing what I do with Brass Tacks designs, but also incorporate more mill made fabrics that are easier to care for, less expensive, and most importantly “young looking”. So for example if I am making an evening dresses in cotton khadi and it does relatively well, I might consider repeating it in mill made silk in a popular colour like magenta or turquoise (you know, colours that really pop). This way I will be able to cater to a wider range of tastes without losing the core ideals and fabrics that I love.
Plan B: Very similar to A, except to keep the brand image intact I need to have the less expensive and more mass appeal range of clothing under a different brand name. This will also allow me to monitor more closely which brand attracts more people or if there is an overlap, but in terms of logistics it’s a bit harder to do at the moment.
And while I figure out which plan to go with for my Winter collection, my team is scrambling to put the Monsoon collection together (sans two tailors who have swine flu). We finally managed to get the pattern right for this halter dress that I am making in a black silk with diamond shaped ikat designs. I tried it on today and breathed a sigh of relief, momentarily forgetting my deadlines, the amount of work I have ahead of me in the next 2 weeks, and all the bills I have to pay.
See I’m not confused. I’m just negotiating new territory on my own terms.
Ouch, right?
But let's set aside how crushed I feel when I see young women try on my clothes and say “it makes me look like I’m forty”. After all I suppose I can look on the bright side and take some strange comfort in the fact that they can see what I am trying to do at Brass Tacks. The whole point at Brass Tacks is to take handwoven fabrics and give them a makeover in the form of tailored, stylish clothing. However if my target customer still feels that the fabrics are making the overall garment look old, then I’ve not succeeded in my design goal.
One lady told me that the designs look “confused” because they are neither for older women (too tailored and fitted with adventurous cuts) nor are they for younger women (“old” colours and fabrics). Well if I have to be either “here” or “there” to make this for-profit model work, then here are my choices:
Plan A: Continue doing what I do with Brass Tacks designs, but also incorporate more mill made fabrics that are easier to care for, less expensive, and most importantly “young looking”. So for example if I am making an evening dresses in cotton khadi and it does relatively well, I might consider repeating it in mill made silk in a popular colour like magenta or turquoise (you know, colours that really pop). This way I will be able to cater to a wider range of tastes without losing the core ideals and fabrics that I love.
Plan B: Very similar to A, except to keep the brand image intact I need to have the less expensive and more mass appeal range of clothing under a different brand name. This will also allow me to monitor more closely which brand attracts more people or if there is an overlap, but in terms of logistics it’s a bit harder to do at the moment.
And while I figure out which plan to go with for my Winter collection, my team is scrambling to put the Monsoon collection together (sans two tailors who have swine flu). We finally managed to get the pattern right for this halter dress that I am making in a black silk with diamond shaped ikat designs. I tried it on today and breathed a sigh of relief, momentarily forgetting my deadlines, the amount of work I have ahead of me in the next 2 weeks, and all the bills I have to pay.
See I’m not confused. I’m just negotiating new territory on my own terms.
Labels: branding, business, collections, design process, fashion, growth, marketing
posted by Anaka at
10:21 PM
16 Comments:
Anaka, it's strange but I've never considered Brass Tacks design as being too old for me. That said, I'm reasonably clear about what works for me and what doesn't. I think I own more silks than I do cottons.
I think that if like me, you have a peculiar body type that doesn't easily fit into readymade clothes, your designs work perfectly.
But yes, a turquoise silk dress in the perfect cuts that are your trademark will really liven up my wardrobe. I also cannot wait for the black halter dress and the pants with a wee bit of lycra. :)
Hi Vidya, I'm so happy you like my clothes the way they are! I never meant for my clothes to be for a particular age group (just that the price range does rule out young college women), but rather for women who are confident in tailored clothing and who are looking for something different.
And yeah, that halter dress is killer :) I'll put up pics on facebook soon.
Anaka - I simply love your clothes the way they are! Love the fact that you can get traditional fabrics to look contemporary- with a great fit. I wear them all the time and often get complimented on them. Can't wait to see your next lot :)
Hi Anaka, Your dilemma is very interesting It reminds me of my first job. I had spent a few years in design school where we were taught to unleash all your creativity, but suddenly you find that hey! i have norms to stick to.
Initially one rebels, but after a few years (a tough few years) one realises that design is no about i, me, myself. am i happy? but more about. is this going to make people's heads turn? is this going to fly off the shelves? i am sure you could use a few inspirations from current trends, color trends etc, after all everybody wants to wear stuff that fits in. And whether we like it or not, the Indian market has opened up. no one says one should wear a salwar kameez if you are over 30 and things like that. Seize the market, if you don't some one else will.
Mandira: thank you :) I'll keep the clothes you love coming.
Kalyani: it's a tough balance. I do think some of my garments are very different and creative and sometimes those are garments that sell well too. But then there are garments that are creative but very understated- garments that won't make heads turn. So then is the trick in designing clothes that are different, will make heads turn, but is still not too crazy or out of the norm? That is tough, right? - fulfilling all of the above criteria and still creating a brand image for clothes that are unique and unlike any other brand?
I completely agree that it is Anaka, but that is the challenge isn't it?
Hi Anaka I think you should persevere with your own take - it may take time but gradually people will get to understand the philosophy behind it. I don't think you should dilute it too much for I am sure customer reactions can be very varied.
I also say this because as of today I am the proud owner of a Brass Tacks tunic! My cousin just got back from Chennai. She had been to your store and picked up some really exquisite pieces for herself and family and is now quite the convert. They all fit in with your posts-natural Indian fabrics but a very sophisticated, modern take on construction. Just returned from her place after admiring all of them - my gift btw is a tunic nicknamed "crocodile" I think - its beautifully soft, lovely muted colours and such a nice fit! J'adore!
Apparently your store had a lovely red silk piece on the front window. It had slits like a kurta and my cousin was looking for a dress kind of thing so didn't pick it up but she told me it was really beautiful :-)
Kalyani: yes, yes, you're right (I'm agreeing reluctantly). Although aren't there some really famous designers who do outrageous stuff and never conform? Not that I'm in that league or anywhere close, but think of design houses like Commes des Garcons. So fulfilling all the criteria and still creating a unique brand image is always the goal- but surely the criteria becomes more relaxed if you are catering to an audience that is more willing to experiment? I suppose every place has its advantages and disadvantages though, depending on the culture and the people.
Anu: That's awesome that you own something from my store!! Was it just coincidence or did you send your cousin to my store?
About the names... I don't have a tunic called Crocodile! I did make a shirt kurta in a multi coloured jhani checks of green and brown though, and I called the colour "crocodile". Does the tunic have a collar and a button down placket with a pin tucked hip band?
And the red silk dress IS a dress! I've never made a silk tunic with side slits since my 2007 summer collection. She must have seen the "Abies Alba" dress from my winter 2008 collection. Oh well...I'm thrilled that you own a piece from my store:) Hand wash and line dry that tunic so that it doesn't shrink.
Hi Anaka,
I do share a similar passion for handloom fabrics. But i feel that we need to educate the weavers on colors. do you work with your weavers at the stage of loom warping and suggest them with newer colors and textures. Even vegetable dyes have come in pop colors.during my college times, we took it up as a challenge to make a very modern pop art inspired home furnishing collection with the help of weavers in kerala. That collection sold like hot cakes.Also, have u thought of embellishing your garments?I also feel that in your older collections you've had fun with the silhouettes, whereas the recent ones are a bit more safely played.
Nandhini: hello and thanks for sharing your feedback. I do work with a lot of weavers at the warping stage so I can tell them which colours to use. The thing I need to keep in mind is colours that pop- because I usually tend to choose more "sober" colours.
The silhouettes...I guess you are right. Compared to the winter collection from last year the summer collection is more safe. However I do have a few styles in the store that are different- stuff that never made it to a photoshoot. Anyway, the upcoming collection has a halter dress and a khadi cotton dress as well as my first dress with sleeves that I'm pretty excited about. So when you see the pictures up on the site please let me know what you think.
Ya sure, I've been wanting to visit ur store since long.Would love to meet you too. when do you come to the store?
Hi Nandhini, I'm normally at the store in the afternoon from around 3pm to 7:30pm. But since the monsoon collection shoot is on Friday, I won't be going to the store until Saturday. Alternatively, send me an email and we can fix a time that works for you? anaka@brasstacksmadras.com
See you soon!
Please no Plan B... Pitching down will take you to a different market if thats what you are aiming for.. but it will also take you away from handloom which i think is what sets Brasstracks apart.
Its just that we have been seeing a set of fabrics for a certain type of dresses.. that it takes some time for the eye and the mind to see the fabric differently... Give the people time.. (as usual not every dress/fabric suits everybody.. right person have to find it.. thats all)
IaminChennai: Thanks for your comment. It's not so much pitching "down" as rather trying to cater to wider audience and earn some money through another brand name while Brass Tacks stays the same. In fact Brass Tacks as you know it right now will not change at all- it's the second brand that will be quite different.
Sorry.. I think i mixed up both plans A & B :-)
A second brand is a good idea but as you have said.. its down to logistics and also the time you can spend on Brasstracks with a demanding second brand.
As for the colors.. why dont you start on dyeing the fabric for your needs... i read that you tried to get kora fabric in colors other than white but couldnt..
Same with silk... instead of going for mill woven silk..whynot handwoven and dyed silk in bright colors... ( ofcourse dyeing is a pain in itself but you can find sustainable and responsible dyers...)
iaminchennai: yes, we are both saying the same things. I can get any colour I want as long as I buy at least 50 metres (which I'm prepared to do) so I am going to choose more daring colours. You'll see in the winter collection.
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