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Every woven fabric has a warp, the
longitudinal threads of the fabric, and a
weft, the threads that go horizontally
across. Satin is a loosely bound weave where
the weft yarn passes over one warp thread
and then skips the next few warp threads
before passing over another. The effect is a
fabric that is smooth and shiny on one side.
Mashru, a handwoven satin fabric traditional
to Gujarat, has silk yarn in the warp and
cotton in the weft, so the satin effect is
augmented with the sheen of silk. |
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The literal meaning of “mashru is
“permitted”. In Islamic tradition, silk was
not supposed to be worn against the skin,
but with mashru, the silk is mostly on the
outside and the cotton forms the inside
layer. |